Site Records
Site Name: Clifton Rocks Tunnel
Sion Hill
Bristol
Most of us pass by the Clifton Rocks Railway without even knowing it
is there. Constructed with great difficulty inside the cliffs of the
Avon Gorge in order to reduce its visual impact on the picturesque surroundings,
this funicular railway operated for 40 years against diminishing trade.
Its closure before WWII did not mark the end of its useful life as it
became a secret transmission base for the BBC. Now a disused shell,
with access so difficult that any potential scheme to revitalise it
would be so expensive as to be unprofitable, this wonderful relic of
a bygone era will probably remain undeveloped. Many people remark upon
the strange 'house - like' facade set into the cliff which can be seen
from a motor car as one travels from the Cumberland Basin area towards
Bridge Valley Road on the right hand side before passing below the Suspension
Bridge. This facade is the lower station entrance of the Clifton Rocks
Railway.
Behind the entrance is a tunnel cut through the rock which extends
at a steep angle to emerge in the now derelict small triangle of ground
between the junction of Princes Lane and Sion Hill, adjacent to the
Avon Gorge Hotel. Within this triangle of ground is the upper Station
which has long since fallen into a state of disrepair. The tunnel itself
forms a straight and direct connection between the upper and lower stations.
A Description Of The Original Railway. The tunnel is 500 feet long,
semi elliptical in cross section with a roof height of 18 feet and a
width of 27 feet 6 inches it climbs a vertical distance of 240 feet
on a rising gradient of about 1:2.2, that is a vertical rise of 1 foot
for every 2.2 feet of forward travel. The tunnel was blasted and cut
through badly faulted limestone and was brick lined in almost its entirety
with a wall thickness of 2 feet
Although the tunnel was lit by daylight at both top and bottom, this
was supplemented by gas lamps installed down the tunnel length. From
the surface, the upper station appears to be a small single storey building,
triangular in plan, with a facade of ashlar bath stone faced masonry
construction facing Princes Lane and the Avon Gorge. The Sion Hill elevation
consisted of iron railings between masonry piers: the railings are now
covered with sheets of boarding. There are two entrances to the upper
station, one at the junction of Princes Lane and Sion Hill, the other
onto Sion Hill itself. The Sion Hill entrance had an ornamental iron
arch over. A visitor would descend down steps from either entrance to
the top station into a small platform which was below upper street level.
In fact the platform extends under the pavement in Sion Hill, and a
series of small arched roof vaults between the rock face and a substantial
steel beam, itself supported on cast iron columns, support the pavement
of the street above. The remainder of the 15 feet wide platform which
is not recessed under the pavement was covered with an awning of small
glass panels set in iron frames (pavement lights) forming a floor on
which sightseers could stand and take in the view, or watch the cars
ascending and descending the tunnel. Most of these glass panels are
still in place, but the grid of supporting steelwork in which they are
mounted is in poor condition. At the head of the tunnel was a timber
screen, pay box and turnstiles, together with the two large pulley wheels
described later.
The lower station itself is constructed inside the rock, and was finished
with the facade erected flush with the rock face. This facade was of
rubble construction using grey pennant stone, locally mined and used
extensively in the less expensive houses being built in Bristol in the
1800's. Quoins and architraves were of bath stone with three decorative
gargoyles above the three entrance arches, the two windows, one on either
side remaining undecorated. A verandah was originally incorporated but
was later removed, the six smaller arches of the upper floor being retained
as picture windows giving a superb view across the river, with a tiled
timber canopy above to provide shade. The building behind this facade
was of two storeys and the ground floor consisted of two rooms. One
contained the turnstiles and pay box (now removed) set in a floor of
red 6 inch tiles. The walls of this room were lined from floor to ceiling
with vertical pine matchboarding. The other room was undecorated and
contained the pumping machinery. On the second floor was situated a
small toilet installed in September, 1894 and some staff facilities.
A later addition above the entrance portals were three bath stone lintels
with the legend 'Clifton Rocks Railway' carved in stone.
From the day that it opened the line was operated by four cars. Each
car consisted of an upper passenger section, with a triangular chassis
angled to suit the gradient of the tunnel. The upper passenger section
resembled in appearence the horse-drawn tramcars to be found operating
during the 1890s on the City tramway, and are believed to have been
constructed in Birmingham by Starbruck who built tramcars for the City.
Each car could accommodate 18 seated passengers and had sliding doors
at either end, the door at the end facing the river opening onto a small
platform on which the 'brakesman' or attendant rode alongside the brake
control. Cars were painted light blue and white with gold lining when
new, but were later re-painted in colours similar to the Bristol Tramway
Company. The cars were mounted by four leaf springs onto the chassis
which were built by Messrs Gimsons of Leicester. These four chassis
were part of a batch of six ordered on 7 March 1892 and delivered in
December, 1892. The balance of the order was for the Bridgenorth/Castle-Hill
Railway, those for the Clifton Rocks being designated by a C prefix
on the detail drawing. The Bridgenorth equipment had a wider guage at
3 ft 8 ins. The chassis were constructed of 8 in by 3 in steel channel
section 14 ft 6 in long, carried on four wheels. The only item not manufactured
at Leicester within the chassis were the axles which were supplied by
J.H. Lloyd and Co. The axles ran in brass bearings fitted onto cast
iron housings bolted onto the top side of the bottom chassis member.
The cars were handed left and right.
Cars ran in pairs on adjacent tracks of 75-80 lbs/yd flat bottom rail.
These rails were bolted directly onto concrete cross sleepers the width
of the tunnel at 5 feet spacing firmly bedded in the rock bed of the
tunnel, The gauge of the railway was 3 feet and each pair of tracks
either side of the tunnel were at 5 feet 6 inch centres.
Each pair of carriages was connected together via two steel wire cables
'being 30 times stronger than the load that has to be put upon them'
which turned around large pulley wheels at the top of the tunnel. The
principle behind the operation of the cars is known as 'water balance'.
As one car ran down its rail its companion car would be pulled up, the
weight of the water plus passengers in the descending car overbalancing
the weight of the passengers in the ascending car. Mounted in the frames
beneath each passenger section was a tank of 12 gauge steel bolted on
3 inch x 1.5 inch rolled steel joists and fitted with a lid of 18 gauge
steel. At the beginning of a journey, releasing the brakes on both cars
allowed the top car to descend, pulling the bottom car up in doing so.
Equipped with all "mod cons", an electric telegraph manufactured by
King, Mendham & Co. of Bristol, permitted the brakesman of the car at
the bottom to inform his opposite number in the car at the top of the
number of passengers to be raised. By this means, the correct weight
of water required to balance the load could be added to the top car.
If the ascending car was empty, then the weight of passengers in the
descending car (if full) was sufficient to activate the system without
the water tank being filled. Upon completion of the journey and whilst
the passengers disembarked, water in the tank of the car at the base
of the incline was automatically emptied into a sump before being pumped
back up to a reservoir at the head of the incline by duplicate sets
of pumps powered by self starting "Otto cycle" gas engines manufactured
by Crossley of Manchester. The water which was employed to operate the
line was therefore used over and over again, the cost of the motive
power for working that required to drive the gas engines for pumping
the water.
The design of the system showed a great concern for safety: some might
describe the design as 'belt, braces, piece of string and the Royal
Air Force'. This is amply demonstrated in the superb braking systems
which were arranged 'such as to satisfy the requirements of the most
nervous of passengers'. Duplicate brakes were incorporated, operated
by hydraulic pressure and acting on both sides of the rails of the line.
Another set of duplicate brakes were incorporated for arresting the
speed should the cars for any undue cause exceed their proper pace and
a third set of duplicate brakes were also incorporated for automatically
stopping the cars should either of the other two systems fail, or should
the two steel ropes break at the same time.
The hydraulic brakes acting upon the rails were the ones controlled
by the brakesmen. They were designed such that the brakesmen had to
give their attention to prevent the car from stopping, rather than trying
to make the car stop. Thus, should one brakesman become careless or
lose his hold of the brake windlass handle, both of the cars would immediately
stop, even though the brakesman upon one of them might be unaware of
the problems which had befallen his companion, The hydraulic brake mechanism
consisted of hydraulic rams acting into cast iron blocks which gripped
the rails in a 'callipe' action. The rams were connected by copper tubes
to much larger master cylinders, the hydraulic fluid being water. Pressure
on the system was applied by heavy weights acting on the top of pistons
in the master cylinders. The weights were directly connected to the
conductor's windlass hand wheel. The act of turning the windlass hand
wheel would raise the weight from the top of the master cylinder reducing
the pressure in the system and hence the grip of the cast iron blocks
on the rails. Should either conductor release his hold on the handle
for any reason, the weights would automatically drop back under gravity,
increasing the pressure in the system, applying the brakes and bringing
both cars to a halt.
The speed governing brake acted independently of the controlling brake
to cause the hydraulic pressure to be increased and the rails to be
gripped should the recommended speed be exceeded. How it worked is not
clear, but from the general specification it appears to have been operated
by means of an eccentric on the lower axle. The third system of brakes
which would operate in the event of a cable failure was completely automatic.
It consisted of two large cast iron wedges with serrated faces mounted
inside either rail, on the ends of steel anus, both of which were pivoted
on a heavy steel cross member. Both ends of the cross member enclosed
the rails. The free ends of the arms were attached to the two cables,
and a large coil spring was incorporated held under compression by the
tension in the ropes. In the event of a cable failure, the load on the
spring would be released and the spring would pivot the arm jamming
the wedge between rail and cross member. Deflection of the rail was
prevented by the outer ends of the cross member. Thus the design incorporated
fail-safe systems which were made simple and which were also duplicated
throughout the assembly: a very reliable design concept.
At the time of construction, the tunnel was the widest of its kind
in the World. Being brick lined, the timbering necessary to provide
temporary support during construction was built in above the bricks,
which incidentally were set in cement. Construction of the tunnel started
from both ends and from intermediate shafts down its length. Steam power
was used to provide compressed air for the rock drills for hauling away
excavated rock, and was the power for the pumps used in draining the
workings from the ever present seepage of surface water. Considerable
difficulties were encountered with the tunnelling due to the faulting
in the limestone, and rock falls (both inside and outside of the tunnel)
were a constant source of worry and delay. Even as late as six weeks
before the opening, a rock fall of some 20 tons down the outside of
the rock face on the 31st of January, 1893 demolished a portion of the
miniature wooden verandah which formed part of the design for the bottom
entrance to the railway, just missing a City bound horse-tram that was
passing. Apart from the looseness of the rock causing problems in the
construction, the limestone in some cases was found to be so conglomerated
with other metalliferous rock 'as to break the drills and turn the edges
of the tools that were used for boring'.
The scaffolding of the tunnel was a matter of great difficulty to the
contractor, and the greatest caution was necessary when erecting the
complicated centre pieces and when placing in position the immense amount
of timber required as struts for the roof and sides of the cutting.
On account of the steep incline, it was impossible to arrange gangs
of men to work one above the other simultaneously, and it was veiy difficult
to provide for the dislodging of the material above without choking
the entrance below. Intermediate shafts were used to remove dislodged
rock via winding engines and machinery erected above the ground. Men
were brought from Canada to operate the pneumatic machines as suitably
skilled labour was not available in Britain. There was considerable
difficulty in keeping the men at work for more than a few weeks at a
time, various accidents causing them to become nervous. The work originally
scheduled to be completed in 12 months, actually took two years to finish,
but great celebration occurred when H. C. Hayes, the Contractor's 10
year old son, squeezed through the hole when the two headings joined
and found the shafts lined up perfectly. Construction costs had been
anticipated at £10,000, but in fact with all the problems, costs rose
to over £30,000.
Timetable of Operation The following is a timetable of operations dated
January, 1922, which was almost identical with that of the first week
of operations:
1 June - 30 Sept Weekdays 8.30 am - 10.00 pm & Sundays 2.30 pm-10.OOpm
1 October - 31 May Weekdays 8.30 am - 9.00 pm & Sundays 2.30 pm-
9.00 pm
By September, 1928 the timetable had become:
All year round Weekdays 8.45 am - 9.15 pm & Sundays 2.3Opm- 9.l5pm
In the mid to late 19th Century, Clifton, Bristol and Hotwells, were
considered as separate. Clifton was a posh area. Hotwells, no longer
a spa attraction was very down market, the River Avon a stinking open
sewer, and the inhabitants including a substantial number of lower class
drunken mariners due to the abundance of ships in the harbour. The residents
of Clifton really did not particularly want ready access to their domain
made available to the surrounding population. For some time they even
resisted having trains use their streets. This then was the back drop
to the conception of the Clifton Rocks Railway. The only way to get
from Hotwells to Clifton was via a variety of steep hills, such as the
zig zag path which remains with us today, or Granby Hill. Thus the Clifton
Rocks Railway owed its existence to the self imposed isolation of the
elegant and fashionable residential area of Clifton from the developing
public transport system of the City of Bristol.
Historical Dairy
23rd July 1880. Mr George White, founder of the Bristol Tramway Company
and later founder of the Bristol Aeroplane Company made an alternative
proposal for an inclined railway fom the north end of the Suspension
Bridge down the face of the Avon Gorge to Hotwells. Here a connection
would be made with the City Tramway, with the Hotwells terminus of the
Bristol Port & Pier Railway and its services to Beach and other suburbs
of Bristol, and with the Hotwells landing stage from which P & A Campbells
and others operated their pleasure steamers to the exotic charms of
Ilfracombe and the South Wales ports. Such a project was rejected by
the Society of Merchant Venturers, owners of the cliffs, probably because
they thought it would be such an eyesore.
27 September, 1889. A similar application from a Mr Kincaid was also
rejected by the Society of Merchant Venturers.
26 September, 1890. A proposal was placed before the Society from Mr
George Newnes MP for an inclined lift from Hotwells Road to the garden
of no. 14 Princes Buildings. Princes Buildings is the row of houses
which now incorporates the Avon Gorge Hotel. This time the proposal
was for a railway running not up the cliff face, but through the rock
in a tunnel. The Society of Merchant Venturers, being prepared to consider
this scheme, resolved to confer with Engineers.
The promoter, George Newnes, was a Member of Parliament for Newmarket.
Cambridgeshire, from 1891 to 1895, founder of the Newnes Publishing
Company and was created a Baronet in 1895. His country residence at
Hollerday Hill, Lynton, Devon, brought him into contact with the Lynton/Lynmouth
Cliff Railway, and a business association began between Mr Newnes and
the eminent Engineer who was responsible for the Lynton/Lynmouth Cliff
Railway and similar projects elsewhere, namely Mr G Croydon Marks AMICE,
MIME. The Architects appointed for the project were Philip Monroe &
Sons of Baldwin Street, Bristol and the Civil Engineering Contractor
Messrs C A Hayes of Thomas Street, Bristol were employed to carry out
the construction of the tunnel.
The Society of Merchant Venturers evidently were only prepared to consider
the construction of the tunnel and railway, providing that Mr Newnes
also tried to resurrect Clifton as a spa town by constructing a Hydropathic
Institute (The Spa) adjacent to the proposed upper station. The total
cost of the railway was estimated at £10,000 and Mr. Newnes was the
sole financier for the venture.
31 October 1890. The Society of Merchant Venturers resolved to consent
to the project on the following terms: (a)That rents would be raised.
(b) That the works should be finished by January, 1893. (c) That no
alteration should be made to the exterior elevations of the buildings
to be constructed, and that they should be used for no other purposes
than permitted at the Bath Pump Room. (d) No licence for liquor (e)
That the road adjacent to Princes Buildings should not be obstructed
(Princes Lane). (1) That no blasting should take place between 7.00
pm and 7.00 am.
7 March, 1891 Lady Wathen, Wife of the Lord Mayor, Sir Charles Wathen,
fired the first shot for the tunnel excavation, an event that was accompanied
by the usual luncheon and speeches. After a difficult and expensive
construction operation which had not been anticipated, the railway was
ready for opening considerably later than had at first been planned.
Early Operations
11 March, 1893 was the date of the official opening of the Clifton
Rocks Railway. 6,220 people made the return journey and the promoters
of the project must have felt greatly heartened by the way in which
the public took to their development. In the opening period around 11,000
passengers per week were carried, 427,492 passengers in the first 12
months of operation. Unfortunately this was really the peak of operations
for the railway and numbers subsequently declined steadily.
The ticket for the first travellers opening day was a commemorative
gilded metal medallion in the shape of a Maltese cross having on one
side a representation of one of the cars together with the initials
of the promoter, engineer and architect. On the reverse was a commemorative
inscription.
27 October, 1893 The Society of Merchant Venturers, being notified
that the railway had been operating for six months, resolve that the
Deeds be executed in favour of Mr Newnes for a period of 999 years,
with a Covenant under which the lessee must maintain the tunnel in proper
repair.
Spring 1894. Mr Newnes formed the Clifton Rocks Railway Co. Ltd to
operate the line. Chairman of the Board was Mr Newnes himself with Mr
Croydon Marks a Co-Director along with P. Fussell and A Yeatman (Company
Secretary). Solicitors for the company were Osborne, Ward, Vassall &
Co Bristol. To this company was leased the tunnel for an annual rental
of £50 subject to covenants requiring the company to maintain the tunnel
with the lines, stations, etc., fit for use as a railway tunnel.
1903. A dispute arose between the City of Bristol (Plaintiffs) and
the Clifton Rocks Railway Co Ltd (Defendants). The City claimed that
the Clifton Rocks Railway occupied land which was owned by the City.
This was a small triangle of land which included The Hot Well pump within
the same parcel and was situated at the lower station, on the side most
remote from Cumberland Basin. The infringement of the tunnel on this
piece of land was no more than 10 feet at the absolute maximum. The
Clifton Rocks Railway Co. replied that they thought they owned the land,
but the lost their case and had to pay a small sum to the City in compensation,
The Decline
1908. The steady decline of passengers took their toll and a receiver
was appointed.
29 November, 1912. The railway's assets were bought outright by the
Bristol Tramway and Carriage Co, for the sum of £1,500.
5 July, 1913. The Royal Show was held on Durdham Downs and during a
'flash in the pan' surge of use, 14,500 people used the railway during
the week prior to this date.
1922 The Portway road was widened. This involved the closure and demolition
of the Bristol Port & Pier Railway from Sneyd Park junction up to and
include the Hotwells terminus, which must have been a good connection
for the Rocks Railway, being situated just a few hundred yards away,
in the Avonmouth direction. A major road was now placed only inches
from the bottom station which made access most difficult.
1 October, 1934. After continued deficits, the Clifton Rocks Railway
finally closed, the four cars being lowered to the bottom station. 1937.
Bristol Corporation received an interest in the tunnel via the Bristol
Transport Act 1937.
Use of the Tunnel During the Second World War
At the outbreak of the Second World War the Ministry of Works and Buildings
took a tenancy of the tunnel from the Tramways Company at a rent of
£100 per annum subject to conditions which required the Office of Works
to indemnify the Tramways Company against any breach of the covenants
in the lease under which the Tramways Company held the property.
25 March, 1940. British Overseas Airways constructed an office suite
and used part of the upper section of the tunnel for storage. Control
of the tunnel came under the ARP (Air Raid Precaution) Committee which
later became the Civil Defence Committee during the War, where they
established shelter number 1898.
The BBC needed to keep broadcasting through the Second World War to
try to distract an estimated audience of up to six million people away
from the blatant propaganda of William Joyce, an American born, English
educated fascist whose exaggerated upper class accent soon earned him
the nickname 'Lord Haw Haw.' The Nazis had craftily set up what they
called a 'British Forces Service' which had dance music interspersed
with news. Military Chiefs who, prior to the War were demanding that
the BBC be closed down if and when War broke out were beginning to see
the sense in keeping the BBC on the air, and some sophisticated technical
changes were made to prevent BBC transmitters becoming beacons which
would guide enemy aircraft to their targets. The BBC had to face up
to the fact that Broadcasting House might be badly damaged by bombs
or even taken over by invading Nazis. They decided to set up an emergency
headquarters in Bristol, capable of handling programme production if
the need arose. Since however, this station too could have come under
attack, the search began for bomb proof premises. The disused railway
tunnel of the Bristol Port & Pier Railway was ear marked. Despite the
emergency situation, in a true blue act of eccentricity, the BBC, incredibly,
sent its symphony orchestra consisting of nearly 100 members, to play
in the proposed tunnel under the baton of the famous Sir Adrian Boult,
with a view to checking the acoustics. One can only presume that the
BBC wanted to ensure that even if Britain was about to be completely
and utterly destroyed, radio listeners should not be denied broadcasted
symphony concerts of the highest quality whilst the bombs dropped around
them. The maestro reported favourably. Unfortunately the delay incurred
in adopting these procedures had upset the BBC's plans. The Director
General went in person to inspect the tunnel, but the Nazi Air Force
beat him to it and after a series of heavy raids, local people were
occupying the tunnel for shelter. The Director General took a typically
British view and at once decided that it would be impossible now to
occupy the tunnel. The BBC had already considered the use of the Rocks
Railway Tunnel but had rejected it due to the anticipated difficulties
of coping with the steep incline. Circumstances now dictated that they
should construct their alternative base here.
July 1941. The BBC intended erecting structures in the tunnel which
would constitute a breach of covenant. A Clerk to Bristol City Council
opened negotiations with all interested parties with a view to vesting
in the Bristol Corporation 999 leasehold title free from all covenants
which would prevent the use of a tunnel for other purposes. At this
stage the structures which had already been erected in the tunnel by
the Ministry of Works constituted a breach of covenant.
The result of negotiations was that the Tramway Co assigned their leasehold
interest to the Bristol Corporation free of charge. The Society of Merchant
Venturers released their right to enforce the covenants as to keeping
the tunnel for railway purposes also free of charge. However, the Society
still required that the entrances to the upper and lower stations should
be kept in good repair, the Ministry having sole use of the upper entrance
for which they were solely liable for keeping in repair. The BBC and
Bristol Corporation were jointly liable for the bottom entrance. The
Grand Hotel Company who by then held the original lease to Mr Newnes,
and who were entitled to the rent of £50 per annum payable by the Tramway
Company, were only prepared to sell their interest and release the covenants.
Their asking price of £1,500 was met by contributions from the Ministry
of Works and Buildings of £800, the BBC £400, and the balance of £300
coming from the City Corporation. The Grand Hotel Company continued
to impose covenants covering nuisance, interference or damage to the
amenities of the Hotel, and their title to the land at either station.
Upon completion of the transfers to the Bristol Corporation, a lease
was granted to the BBC for a period of 21 years at a nominal rent of
1 shilling for the bottom portion of the tunnel, and part of the bottom
station, free from any liability to reinstate the tunnel at the end
of the tenancy.
24 February 1941 Work proceeded on the BBC installation alongside the
negotiations.
28 February 1941 The four carriages were removed from the tunnel, this
part of the conversion being subcontracted to the Bristol Tramway Co.
Within three months there had been constructed within the tunnel four
large chambers, one above the other, with three smaller chambers being
provided at ground level. The total cost of the conversion was about
£10,000, of which £6,000 could be attributed to construction work.
Description of the BBC Installation
Top Room: Transmitters Various transmitters were incorporated in this
room. One served Bristol with programmes whilst two others were set
up o keep the station in touch with the outside World in an extreme
emergency. The largest transmitter was an American RCA 'H' group transmitter
operating on 203.5 m and broadcasting the home service. This had been
brought over from America on lend lease in the early days of the War.
The other two consisted of a Harvey McNamara shortwave set, and an ex
RAF medium wave transmitter for restoring communication between the
other main provincial and metropolitan broadcasting stations should
the Post Office telephone lines be damaged by enemy action.
Second Chamber Down: Studio This was equipped with piano, gramophone
and other facilities for musical, dramatic or school's programmes and
could take a cast of 10-15 actors. Poor acoustics were accommodated
by installing heavy carpets and providing strategically placed quilting
on the walls. Small scale musical, dramatic or feature programmes could
be produced in this room
The Third Chamber Down: Recording Room This room contained a Philips-Miller
record and replay machine which used gelatine coated celluloid film
7mm wide, onto which recordings were cut with a sapphire stylus. Also
within this room were sufficient programmes for many weeks of broadcasting.
Fourth Chamber Down: Control Room Here the BBC Engineers surpassed
themselves in compressing an enormous amount of equipment into a very
small space. The room incorporated switching gear for no fewer than
80 land lines leading to outside stations. The Post Office routed these
in various formations to minimise the risk of a single bomb damaging
all in one go.
The Three Smaller Rooms at Lower Ground Floor Level These rooms held
emergency diesel generators, a special forced ventilation plant in which
full precautions were taken against gas attacks, and a canteen containing
sufficient food and water for several weeks.
Exterior An aerial was strung from the tunnel head to the Grand Spa
Hotel. At the lower level station the main entrances and windows were
blocked, and ventilation ducts were installed externally.
Throughout the Control Room was manned day and night, transferring
countless thousands of programmes in many different languages to various
transmitters. However, the emergency studio never had to be used. Just
in case, whenever the bombs began to fall on Bristol during the War,
key programme staff used to pile into an armoured Dodge Shooting Break
car and make a dash to the tunnel where they would stand by to go on
the air if required. Thankfully, the main studios at BBC Bristol were
never silenced, but the usefulness of the Control Room alone fully justified
the work which had gone into the conversion of the railway tunnel.
After the War
30 July, 1946. The War was over and the BBC had reviewed its transmitter
and studio capacity, and was ready to terminate its tenancy and remove
all of it's equipment, except for the heating lighting and ventilation
plant. The ventilation plant had cost £1,600 to install and would cost
£104 to remove. The Bristol Corporation were prepared to purchase all
this plant for the sum of £5 in exchange for no claim being made for
reinstatement in respect of the premises. Ideas had been mooted to retain
the station as a museum piece.
28 August 1946. International trouble arose over the use of the 514
m waveband, and to comply meant reducing power on all main transmitters,
and boosting the signal using local transmitters. Thus the Bristol transmitter
was retained as a local booster station.
October 1946. The Ministry of Works' lease was surrendered.
1955. The tunnel was becoming a drain on the BBC's operating costs,
the annual rates alone being £549. A new lease was therefore negotiated
by the BBC for accommodation in the upper part of the tunnel, incorporating
the landing or upper platform at the head of the tunnel, together with
a right of access through the entrance on Sion Hill, adjoining the Hotel,
and together with the right to place and maintain a 40 foot aerial mast
and hut above the premises, the mast to be stayed at three points. The
BBC took on this lease for ten years at a rental of £10 per annum exclusive
of rates, whilst the original lease for the bottom section was surrendered
at the same time. This turned out to be a timely withdrawal from the
bottom section as defects were about to be found at the base of the
construction.
1956. Cracks were noticed between the masonry of the lower station
facade and the face of the limestone cliffs. Further inspection showed
that a crack some 4 inches wide had also opened up in the brick lining
to the tunnel immediately behind the facade. Tubular steel scaffolding
was used to shore up the facade and the slope behind the facade was
cleared of loose rock and earth and a total of some 1,000 cubic yards
of material was removed. The dense growth of vegetation on the cliff
path steps behind the portal was also cleared. The facade of the railway
changed in appearance at this stage, with a considerable quantity of
the high level side masonry being removed.
August 1957. A W Skempton DSC MICE, and D I Henkel PhD AIvIICE, eminent
Engineers specialising in soil mechanics were employed by the Bristol
City Engineer to give advice on the measures that should be taken to
ensure the stability of the tunnel facade and the cliffs at this point
in the Avon Gorge.
Many of the walls built to retain the earth of the terraces over the
Rocks Railway tunnel showed signs of movement These walls had been constructed
before the tunnel had been built and cracks now were particularly marked
where walls crossed the line of the tunnel. To obtain information about
the site, boreholes were sunk. The boreholes confirmed that a layer
of clay about 5 feet thick was sandwiched between layers of limestone
rock, the strata dipping steeply downwards towards the Cumberland Basin.
The boreholes would not hold water and it was concluded that the tunnel
was acting as a drain removing water which was collecting above the
clay layer. A considerable area of the tunnel was very wet.
January 1958. It was recommended that a series of tied buttresses be
constructed along the face of the tunnel in Hotwell Road. These buttresses
were constructed from rolled steel sections encased in concrete and
the whole assembly was anchored to the cliff using rock inclined anchors
connecting the top of the assembly down into the rock behind Additionally,
a series of drainage boreholes were specified through the clay layer
above the tunnel, to be backfihled with gravel to ensure drainage of
the upper limestone rock in the area of potential instability.
24 March 1960. With changes brought about by advances in technology,
the radio station became redundant and the BBC's lease determined.
Since 1960. The Pump Room was used from time to time as a store, but
except for the passage of telephone cables, no permanent use has yet
been found for the tunnel and stations.
Present Status
The top station is in poor condition with the original station layout
disturbed by the subsequent modifications which have been introduced.
A false roof of fibreboard covered with asphalt has collapsed into the
station leaving a skeletal timber framework.
The tunnel itself is wet in places due to seepage, but the majority
of the brick lining is in good condition considering its age. The track
bed has been almost entirely built over. Two staircases 4 feet 6 inches
wide have been constructed against either side rail of the tunnel from
top to bottom. Both staircases have treads constructed from precast
concrete units. The centre channel between the two staircases is separated
from them by solid brick walls. There are also a number of cross walls
dividing up the centre channel into compartments. In the upper parts
of the tunnel these areas give the impression of steep narrow cinemas
with tiered platforms rising up the slope of the tunnel between the
two walls dividing the centre section from the staircases on either
side. Further down, the BBC modifications are in poor condition, with
most of the timber floors having disintegrated. It is estimated that
in excess of 27,000 cubic feet of brick and concrete are now resident
inside the tunnel.
The bottom station still contains the BBC's ventilation plant and the
configuration of the rooms is virtually as original. However, the arches
that once led to the verandah have been bricked up save only for small
openings at the top of each arch into which the open ends of the BBC
air ducts once fitted. Unfortunately, the stabilisation work necessary
to prevent further leaning of the facade towards the Portway has severely
disfigured its elegant architecture.
Future Use
Many ideas have been forthcoming on the utilisation of this fascinating
relic of yesteryear. In all cases, the costs of providing the necessary
conversion work far outweigh the returns. There is perhaps something
to commend the idea of leaving it alone so that it can remain virtually
unnoticed except by the few who have discovered its charms. It seems
that the tunnel is almost certain to remain, in economic terms, what
it has always been: an eccentric, exciting white elephant
Sub Brit site visit 16th September 2001
There are two entrances to the sunken top station, one at the junction
of Sion Hill and Princes Lane and the other a few yards along Sion Lane
towards the Avon Gorge Hotel. Each entrance opens onto the original
stairway with its hand rails intact. The two flights of stairs converge
passing under a white tiled arch towards the tunnel mouth. At the bottom
of the second stairway an entrance onto the railway 'platform' has been
bricked up but their is still an open entrance onto one of two parallel
flights of stairs running down each side of the 500 foot long tunnel.
The top section of the railway is still open to daylight although partly
roofed over. Glass tile and prism (some pink and some clear) panels
have been set into the roof to give sightseers a view of the cars; these
panels are still largely intact. The turnstile, pay box and platform
have all disappeared but the two horizontal pulley wheel remain in place
and the four tracks are undoubtedly still there although now covered
with rubble and not visible.
Throughout its length, the tunnel has been subdivided into a number
of rooms with brick side walls running almost up to the curved roof
with access from the two stairways down each side of the tunnel. The
first room is reached after 50 feet and its construction is clearly
visible. Three parallel brick walls have been built across the tunnel
each being of different height to take account of the gradient. Boards
would have been laid across these walls to give a flat floor but they
have all been removed. At this point it is possible to see the original
rails (4 pairs) although the two outer rails are lost (but still in
place) under the steps down each side of the tunnel. There are three
doorways in the upwards facing wall. The two outer doorways lead into
small rooms or cupboards while the middle doorway leads through a small
passage into an up-slope room running the width of the tunnel. This
room cannot be accessed directly from the side stairs. Below these rooms
are three long rooms containing terraced seating with a stairway down
the centre. They look rather like narrow cinemas but are in fact part
of the air raid shelter, the terraces providing seating for the shelterers.
Photo:
The tiered air raid shelter seating
Photo by Nick Catford
The lower two rooms have 21 terraced seats while the upper room has
approximately 12. Between each terraced room there is a narrow room
across the width of the tunnel. Beyond the third terrace there is a
gas tight door across the stairway giving access to the section of the
tunnel used by the BBC. The stairway down the opposite side of the tunnel
ceases at this point.
While the shelter tunnels and rooms are still in good condition consisting
of bear concrete with brick walls, the BBC rooms have not fared so well.
Beyond the gas door are four rooms one above the other. These were in
order (down), the transmitter room, studio, recording room and control
room. Each room still has its wooden floors partially intact resting
on wooden joists. The floorboards have rotted badly and have collapsed
in many areas making entry into the rooms difficult. They appear to
have been largely stripped apart from some electrical fittings on the
walls. Each room as a storage area accessed from the upwards facing
wall and running under the floor of the room above. The only real evidence
that this was a BBC complex is on the door to the recording room where
the word 'Recording' is still clearly visible.
Beyond the forth room is the lower station which was also used by the
BBC. At the bottom of the stairs is a short flight of steps in the middle
of the tunnel to an upper level. At the top of the steps is a small
room to the left and the ventilation plant installed for the BBC to
the right. The plant, consisting of trunking, fans and cylindrical filters
is still all in place. There is a vertical ladder down to the lower
level at the far end of the room. Back at the bottom of the steps are
male and female toilets (probably from BBC days) still retaining names
on the doors. Beyond the stairs a short passage leads out to daylight
but there is a locked grille preventing access. Alongside this passage
a hole in the wall gives access to a green pine panelled room that would
have been the original ticket hall. The doorway out to the street has
been bricked up. On one side of the room is a rusty iron ladder to another
part of the upper level (with no upper connection to the ventilation
plant except through an aperture high in the wall) and on the other
side of the room a flight of wooden stairs. This would have been the
original staff area. The room is stacked with ventilation trunking and
curved sections from the roof. There are further toilet cubicles on
both levels.
Back at the top of the tunnel but only accessible from the flight of
stairs on the opposite side there is a passage out onto Princes Lane
which is also bricked up. There are two further toilet cubicles in the
passage together with a wide entrance doorway (doors removed) into the
derelict Pump Room. Although in a very poor state of repair the massive
room is still impressive with stone columns along the side walls, a
semi circular alcove and coloured glass windows high on one wall. The
walls are painted black and the floorboards have gone. Although some
rubbish has recently been cleared the Avon Gorge Hotel have been quoted
£3Million for the restoration of the spa so although a listed building
it is likely to remain in a derelict state for the foreseeable future.
I would like to thank the manager of the Avon Gorge Hotel (who own the
top station and tunnel) for unlimited access to photograph the tunnel.
They have made it clear however that no further visits will be allowed
and the entrance will be permanently sealed. The bottom station is owned
by the Council. Those present were
Those taking part in the visit were
Nick Catford, Robin Ware, Keith Ward, Robin Cherry, Andrew
Smith, Tony Page, Richard Challis, Terry White, Ross Floyd and Matthew
Beasant.
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Last updated 28th September 2003
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